Undredal to Bergen

Monday, September 5

Soon after leaving Undredal this morning, we encountered a detour due to a tunnel closure.  Though the mountain road we climbed was steep, winding, and narrow but it certainly had its rewards.  Among them were a great waterfall, wonderful views, and a passage through the tiny village of Stalheim with its large hotel perched high on the mountain.  

Part of today’s drive was along the Hardanger National Tourist Route, which follows the Hardangerfjord.  It goes without saying that the views were lovely, and today’s sunny skies showed them off to great advantage.  We stopped for a picnic along the shore and just drank in the beauty. 

Our car is equipped with an Autopass which is pretty much de rigueur in Norway.  In many cases, tolls are charged automatically along the roads, at some tunnels, and upon entering some city central districts, with no toll booths or other apparent way to pay, though I’ve read that it may be possible at the next gas station after the toll is registered.  We’ll pay piper when we return the rental car.

We arrived in Bergen, Norway’s second city mid-afternoon. After checking in to our apartment, we drove downtown, stopped at the waterfront TI, and walked around the old city, which is centered on the harbor.  The streets of the old center are cobbled, narrow, and quite attractive and the area fronting the harbor is a fish, fruit and vegetable market.

The oldest quarter of the city is Bryggen, on the eastern shore of the harbor.  This was the center of the trading powerhouse that Bergen was during the 12^th and 13^th centuries.  It was one of the German Hanseatic League’s four headquarters worldwide, the trading hub of Scandinavia, and Norway’s capital and biggest city.  Today, Bryggen is a colorful collection of mostly wood gabled buildings, leaning against each other in rows, for the most part housing shops and cafes.

We had dinner downtown at a restaurant known for traditional Norwegian home cooking and lots of interesting beers on tap and it was delicious.  I expect that a fish, macaroni and cheese casserole and lamb sausages with pickled onions don’t sound like dishes most would salivate over, but they were both fantastic; it pays to go local!