Another Day in the Fjords

Sunday, September 4 

Today was full of overwhelmingly beautiful sights and sunny weather that showed them to perfection.  

We began by heading back in the same direction from which we’d ended yesterday’s drive, but instead of the 15-mile long tunnel, we took a road that ran along the fjord to Auland and then began another of the National Tourist Routes, the Aurlandsfjellet.  The road wound and climbed up the mountainside and offered the most spectacular views of the fjord and village below.  The depth of the water seems almost as visible as the streams coursing down the mountainsides and the ferry passing by far below.  The Stegastein overlook was a fitting match for its location.  The viewing platform extends from the mountainside and ends in an angled plexiglass panel which makes it feel as if you’re suspended over thin air.  

Once past the viewpoint, we continued to climb and were soon above the tree line in a world of boulder-strewn land dotted by small ponds, earth-hugging low-growing plants, patches of snow, waterfalls, and sheep.  At one point, a small group of sheep was ambling side-by-side across the road in front of our car. Rather than move out of the way when Tom tapped the horn, they just scampered along in front of us, their bells ringing. This part of the road is closed in winter and is known as the Snow Road.  As we drove on, our GPS indicated that we had passed over the tunnel we’d driven through yesterday.  While we appreciated the efficiency of that travel as we headed home yesterday, this drive was proof that it’s all about the journey, not just the destination.

From the town of Ovre Ardal, we took a one-lane (two-way, of course) mountain toll road north.  The narrow road climbed steeply and we encountered many walkers and hikers out enjoying this gorgeous Sunday.  As the signs at the start of the road had indicated, only credit cards were accepted at the tiny unmanned toll station at the top of the mountain.  Guess we would have had to roll back down if our card didn’t work!

We joined yet another of the National Tourist Routes, the Sognefjellet.  The highest mountain road in northern Europe, it is known as the road over the roof of Norway.  There was a fair amount of deep snow to be seen along the way and lots of it on the craggy peaks that provided dramatic views.  The road skirts Jotunheimen National Park, which encompasses the country’s highest peaks, 60 glaciers, lakes, hiking trails and a ski center.  The road is closed during the winter, so the peak skiing season is June to November!!!  We’ve read that when the route opens in the spring, the roadside snowbanks are over 30 feet high.

We kept encountering so much spectacular scenery that it was hard to turn around and head back home.  But, we’ve discovered that there just doesn’t seem to be anywhere here that isn’t undeniably gorgeous; on a ferry crossing late this afternoon, we agreed that every view looked as if it belonged on a national tourism board’s poster.

Back at home base in tiny Undredal, we walked up the hill after dinner to see Scandinavia’s smallest stave church, first built in 1147, but dismantled, moved and reconstructed several times.  It’s 13 feet by 39 feet, has only 40 seats and is still an active church, though closed to visitors except during the summer months.

Tomorrow, we’ll pack up and head to Bergen for a couple of nights.  No doubt, we’ll find more beauty along the way!