Copenhagen

Monday, September 19 

This morning, we walked about 15 minutes to the City Hall and had a chance to look around the building, which is lovely both inside and out.  After buying a Copenhagen Card, which will give us access to many attractions and public transport until our departure Thursday morning, we had a chance to take in an exhibit of calligraphy by a Buddhist master in the large atrium, as well as the elaborate astronomical clock.  The fastest gear in the clock completes a revolution every 10 seconds, the slowest – every 25,753 years!!

During the last several years, we’ve routinely looked for free (tip-based) walking tours when we’ve been in cities we’re unfamiliar with.  They’re generally given by young people who, whether natives or enthusiastic “adoptees” of the city, are pleased to introduce it to visitors.  The tour groups are usually multinational, the common language always English.  Today, we had a distinctly American English presentation, as our guide, Victoria, is here (to stay) from Charlotte, NC! As the clock tower bell tolled 10:00, we were off on a three-hour jaunt that gave us a taste of Copenhagen’s center.  

Since its founding by Bishop (and conversion-by-threat-of-death evangelist!) Absalon in the 12^th century, through its establishment at the nation’s capital in the 15^th, heyday as the seat of a Scandinavian empire, and eventual political decline in the 19^th, Copenhagen was home to more Kings Frederick and Christian than we could keep track of.  The city was also repeatedly ravaged by fires and consequently, most of the palaces and other buildings we saw have had several incarnations.

Christiansborg Palace, once a royal residence, is now an impressive Parliament Building.  Along with other government buildings, it’s situated on an island that has been the center of power in Denmark since Absalon built the first castle there.  

The city as benefitted greatly from the philanthropy of the Carlsberg Brewery, which was founded here in the 19^th century.  We saw several of the public works funded by Carlsberg, and learned some of its historical lore, including stories of the founding family’s interest in and support of science; Nobel prize-winning physicist Niels Bohr was rewarded with a home adjacent to the brewery, complete with a special pipeline so he never had to make a beer run!

Copenhagen also reveres its literary giants and we were interested to see the theater where
Hans Christian Andersen tried to make his mark as ballet dancer, actor, and boy soprano (which he did, momentarily), before turning to writing. The home he chose after he finally made it big was on the top floor of a swank hotel overlooking the theater where it all began.

We especially enjoyed seeing the canal in the Nyhavn district.  Once a disreputable district distinguished by the amusements on offer to visiting sailors, it’s now chock full of brightly painted restaurants and cafes, with great views of the wooden boats moored quay-side.

The tour ended at the current residence of the royal family, Amalienborg Palace, which is actually four palaces encircling a large cobblestoned square, flanked by the green copper dome of the Marble Church and a lovely canal-side park.  

Just across the canal, is the new Opera House, a gift of the Maersk Foundation.  In recognition of the foundation’s roots in the world’s largest shipping company, the design of the building evokes the bow of a ship, with its roof extending over the canal.  Each year, there’s a “cliff” diving contest from the roof into the canal!

After lunch in the park, we visited the museum located in one of the Amaliensborg palace buildings (which helped us sort out a few of the Christians and Fredericks!) then the Marble Church.
At that point, we answered the call of the canals (and the chance to sit down for an hour or so) and took a boat tour.  It was a sunny afternoon and it was nice to have a duck’s-eye-view of the city.

A few noteworthy (to us) notes –

Bicycles are THE way to travel here; more that 50% of Copenhagen workers commute by bike, and they are a force to reckon with -- and be aware of, especially when crossing the street.

As elsewhere in Scandinavia, taxes are high (35 to 68%) and so are social services for all.  Healthcare and education are free, minimum wage is high, and there’s even a stipend for college students’ living expenses.  In addition, there’s two years of financial support while graduates look for jobs after finishing school.  The birthrate is low, and there are incentives awarded for having babies, and also for EU immigrants to relocate here.  The government has recognized that it needs to increase the tax base to maintain the current level of services.

And, with that, we’ll call it a day.