To Reykjavik via the Golden Circle

Sunday, September 11

 After checking out of our Hvolsvollur apartment this morning, our first stop was at Skalholt, a quiet spot now, but once the center of church, political, academic and cultural power in Iceland. The first church was built there in the 11^th century and, for seven centuries, it was home to bishops of Iceland (first Catholic, and then, after the last Catholic bishop was executed -- along with two of his sons! -- Lutheran).  It was also the site of the first school and once the biggest population center in Iceland.  The present church, built in 1963, sits on a hill above a lake and excavations of the original buildings in the episcopal complex.  The church is simple inside and out, but while the exterior feels quite stark, the inside glows with light streaming through many deeply-hued stained glass windows of abstract design.  Alongside the church is an old turf church, with lovely wooden detailing.

Then, it was on to Geysir, an active geothermal area, and the first of three sites on Iceland’s Golden Circle.  The area’s largest feature, Geysir, also known as The Gusher, is also the origin of the term geyser.  It erupts rarely and irregularly, but there is other activity at the site.  Steaming holes in the earth are scattered about and smaller geysers erupt frequently.

A short distance down the road, we reached Gullfoss, the Golden Waterfall, next on our Golden Circle tour.  This two-stage waterfall on the Hvita River thunders down into a canyon, spraying clouds of water in all directions. There are viewing platforms and paths alongside the falls – lots of room for the crowds who arrive to see one of the country’s most popular attractions.

Þingvellir (Thingvellir in English) was our last stop on the Golden Circle.  Situated in a National Park, it is a place of historic, cultural, and geological significance. It’s located in a rift valley that marks the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates and the demarcation is striking. This boundary runs through Iceland and is the origin of the volcanic and geothermal activity on the island.  In 930, the national parliament met here for the first time and continued to do so until the end of the 18^th century.  Because representatives of clans from throughout Iceland assembled here annually, along with others encamped to observe the legislative sessions, Þingvellir is considered significant to the development of linguistic and national unity among the scattered populations of the country.  The park also includes the largest lake in Iceland and more lush vegetation than we’ve seen elsewhere in Iceland, so there were lots of nice vistas to enjoy.

We arrived in Reykjavik by late afternoon and settled in the apartment that will be our base for three nights.